Here is a list of the steps I take during a full commission.
First, I analyze references and think about what would be the best way to print your desired model. This can take more than a week for challenging commissions.
I make the topology in Blender. A very rough model, without much care for anatomy.
Then I align the model to references and fix anatomy issues.
I add details by editing and sculpting.
I send you updates in video form, so you can see it from all sides.
Once you're happy with the model, I start preparing it for printing. This means cutting it into pieces as planned, adding custom supports, rafts and helpers if required, adding attachment cubes or holes for screws. Also test prints to check if screws fit fine. I usually need to make small changes on the model to make it more printable.
I send you my .blend file and all the .stl files needed for printing.
I print in PLA. For extra price, I can print individual parts in PET-G (a stronger plastic). However, keep in mind that the print quality with PET-G is somewhat lower.
I dehumidify my filament to make it like new, right before printing.
I print commissions in 0.08 mm resolution. For large models, this can take a week or longer.
Chance of failed printing attempts is included in the base price. You won't need to pay extra for my failures.
When prints fail, or even when they succeed, I might get ideas for how to fix/improve the model. These improvements are included in the base price. You won't need to pay extra.
I remove strings and wisps from the prints and sand down any imperfections.
I assemble everything with screws and/or glue.
I capture the print from all sides. You will get a link to a turntable like this one.
I intensely sand down all surfaces to make the plastic surface smoother. I use sandpaper, dremel and other tools.
I add modeling putty on all surfaces to fill in gaps, cracks and unwanted holes.
Once the slimy putty turns to stone, I sand it down to make it smooth with the plastic.
I repeat the putty steps until I'm satisfied with the smoothness of the model.
I glue the parts of the model that were not already glued (because I wanted them accessible from all sides).
I putty and sand the new seams between the glued parts, multiple times.
I spray the entire model in filler primer and sand it again. This fills in small cracks that putty couldn't.
I spray a layer of primer on the entire model, for better paint adhesion.
Then, I start spraying layers of base coat.
Putty leaves a somewhat furry finish. After each layer of paint dries (which takes about 24 hours) I remove little strings left by putty. Because of this issue, I later switched from putty to wood filler which is easier to paint over.
Once I get to real (colored) layers of paint, traces of putty are gone.
I use an airbrush or spray paint for painting the main color of your model.
I use traditional brushes and acrylic paints for painting the remaining colors of your model.
This takes a lot of layers in different colors, shapes and patterns.
I make digital prototypes of eyes and eyelashes before painting them.
I paint eyes with glossy acrylic paint. I always make sure the surface of the eye is as smooth as possible.
You will get many updates during the painting process.
Cutie mark is usually last. I will try to match references as closely as possible.
Once I finish painting, I spray the model with a transparent protective layer. This makes it somewhat scratch-resistant.
You will get another turntable link of the finished product.
Then I pack and ship the model. Models with detachable parts are usually shipped disassembled because it is safer this way. Some minimal assembly might be required. Assembly instructions with pictures will be in the box too.